The Story
Wil trained under one of the most renowned and last remaining bespoke shirtmaker in the world who be-gifted him a unique pattern making formula. With this comprehensive foundation Wil opted to continue learning, focussed on perfecting his own pattern methodology by travelling to meet other makers around the world who supported his quest in reviving and evolving this dying craft. Using this experience Wil trained his own small team, using a combination of the traditional ‘Jermyn Street make’ and his own methodology defined by endless experimentation and advice received from other renown cutters and makers within the industry.
The Whiting shirt is based on the traditions of British shirt making combined with construction and sewing techniques used in bespoke tailoring and haute couture, creating a unique offering of shirt to the new age of discerning clientele.
The Creative Process
A bespoke shirt centres around three key elements; the fit, the crafting and the fabric, achieved by meticulously understanding a client and their individual requirements. They are guided through the process where factors such as personal style, routine and the required function are discussed to ensure the shirt is constructed in the right style and materials.
At least thirty measurements are recorded, with a posture assessment to ensure the shirt pattern is cut specific to the client’s anatomy. A bespoke collar pattern is also drafted, made in their own style proportionate to their face, neck and body. With this area varying significantly from person to person, it is vital that a bespoke collar is included within the bespoke shirt process.
Once a client’s individual paper pattern is cut a fitting shirt is made from trial fabric where it is later assessed on them to check it cleanly follows the contours of their body. Once the fitting process is complete a wearable trial shirt is made so the client can test the shirt in their daily routine. When this process is signed off the fabric specially chosen by the client can be cut and sewn to the highest standards before their final presentation.
Wil personally hand cuts each client their own individual paper pattern using his unique drafting formula. All shirts are hand crafted in his own workshop enabling methodical control over the entire making process. Each shirt takes between sixteen and fifty hours (depending on the level of hand work) to cut and sew, excluding the pattern cutting and fitting process. In addition to this meticulous fitting process all other aspects of the making are treated with the same care and importance. All stripe, check and print fabrics are cut for full pattern matching; sewn by single needle on machine and finished with couture hand sewing; using only the highest graded fibres of fabrics and ethically sourced mother of pearl buttons. These are just a few of the wider known features, with many others unique and some a secret to the house.
